Sunday, September 23, 2012

In the Cockpit

Time to start on the cockpit. Not much to do here really but some definite changes.

First, the shrouds go through the gunnel and fix to brackets that are fixed to the front side of the seats. This is obviously to assimilate the strapping in larger boats that are fixed to the hull. Seems like a logical choice but I see no reason, with additional bracing, the shrouds couldn't be fixed to the gunnels themselves. So that is what I intend to do.

                         Original through gunnel hole bracket with the aluminum backing plate (now filled with thickened resin and painted over).






                            Bracket fixed to front of seat directly below hole bracket in gunnel.



Will post pics of under gunnel reinforcement when built........................................................


Second, I am cleaning up the Keel Trunk brackets. Will cut back 0.2 feet from deck/trunk join. Will reinforce with thickened resin as a filet.


Will post pics when finished.............................................................................................

Third, after having cut the glass on the transom looking for the hull # (see previous post), I was left with a area of the transom that was depressed to the wood. So I layered Matt into the gap. You can see where there is one layer and where there are two or three layers. Finished off with 2 coats of resin. Needs only a light sanding and is ready for paint.


Will continue to post pics as various parts progress.







Saturday, August 11, 2012

Deck & Gunnels


With the help of some friends, the hull has been flipped back over right side up (see previous post video - "The Hull", June 10, 2012). Now I can finish off the deck, gunnels and the inside. So I am approaching the deck and gunnels first. There is not too much to do but there are some important aspects. You can see that the jib sheet rigging has been changed from the original set up. I am not sure just why but the rigging crosses over the through way next to the centerboard trunk and restricts movement in the boat. I intend to move the jib sheet cleats back to the gunnels. There are several positions that can achieve this. I am not sure just where the fairings and cleats will be positioned but first things first, I have to prepare the deck for painting and the gunnels for affixing the fairings, cleats and paint. The gunnels were also fixed to the transom with metal "L" brackets. I intend to support this join with glass cloth & resin, inside and out, eliminating any bolts & nuts in that area.

BTW: work is limited to early mornings (95 degrees F) now that the average temp is over 110 degrees F this time of year in Phoenix, AZ. In the very cold parts of the country, you may stay inside in the dead of winter. Here we do the same in the dead of summer! Dry heat doesn't help at 115 degrees!





                                Existing Jib Sheet rigging on the left, proposed (original) on the right.


                                                             Gunnel to Transom join:



Labor Day weekend is here and I am determined to finish the deck and gunnels to the stage of being painted. Even from all I have read, I still do not have a clear understanding of Gel Coat. Assuming that it is just a layer of colored resin, I decided to "fix" the cracks in the top layer of the deck with the following steps. I gave the entire deck and gunnels a reasonable sand with 60 grit on my palm sander. Then I used West Marine Resin thickened with 403 filler, just to the point it would still brush on, to coat all the areas with spider cracks. When that set as a base, I brushed on another coat of resin but this time with no thickening agent. When that sets up I will sand with 60 grit followed by 220 grit. Then I will paint.................


                                             Two coats on and one more to go...................


Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Rudder Rebuild

I stripped the original rudder thinking it was in good enough condition to reuse. I sanded it down and filled the crack running down the center with West Marine Resin thickened with filler. The rudder had two aluminum bars each side that had been set into the rudder and was in effect a very good repair.

                                                                          

The aluminum fitting that mounted on the transom and joined the the rudder and tiller was cracked and was missing a piece at the top that held the butt of the tiller. This part was not available to purchase so I went to a local machine shop, Allied Machine Works, 438 West Watkins, Phoenix, AZ and had the piece reconditioned. The lip at the top was rebuilt and the shoulder cracks were welded and reenforced with an extra piece of aluminum.
                                                                                

The rudder had a warp to it and having done the reconstruction up to now, I decided to just make a new rudder. I bought a piece of Red Oak from Home Depot 3/4 " x 10 1/2 " x 3 ' for $25. I used the old rudder for a template and cut out the new rudder. It fits the aluminum fitting perfectly. Now I have to shape the rudder and Epoxy it. So far so good.

                                                                             
                                                    Shaped and ready for Resin (today!)

                                                         4th and last coat of resin curing

Sunday, June 10, 2012

New Shirts

When I first bought my Laguna 18, sold some 5 years now in Arkansas, it was named "Second Wind". I changed the name to "In My Daughter's Eyes" (a song recorded by my favorite, Martina McBride). I did keep the name around though. My company that owned my restaurant "Rick's Place" (in Sharon, Kansas 2005 & 2006) was called Second Wind. Although I adopted the call name of "Sea Swallow" for this blog as that will be the name of the Chrysler 16 I am going to refurbish when I finish the Lido 14, I am retaining the name "Second Wind (Sail)" for the "entity" (me) that refurbishes small sailboats. So I unveil the new shirts I have just had made. I did the logo design and the shirts were made for me locally here in the Phoenix Metro area by:
                                 Duane Kilzer, 480-648-6800 / dkminus1@gmail.com


The Hull


Once I had the keel removed, I placed the hull back on the trailer, keel side up, so I could inspect and refurbish the hull. The first thing I wanted to do was strengthen the join between the hull and the keel trunk so I laid Glass Cloth along both sides of the keel trunk. The first attempt was to place a strip of Glass Matt in between the Cloth in a fold. That proved to be a real pain to get it to lay the way I wanted as the Cloth would not fold well and kept opening up. The second attempt was done by laying one piece of Cloth followed by a strip of Matt and another layer of Cloth. That seemed to work better but was not the finished seam that I really wanted. Oh well, I have moved on. I now only need to sand the second side as it has an unfinished Cloth edge up in the trunk. I am not sure I needed to do that but as I was already there and considering the state of the hull in all other aspects, I figured Why Not?

Secondly, what I found was not in anything I had read about. At the point where the support brackets for the mast support beam connected to the hull and at the spots where the support brackets for the keel truck sat on the hull, the hull had given way and bowed outward (like a bubble).  In the case of the mast support beam brackets, I just left them alone but on the bottom of the hull near the centerboard keel trunk, it looked like 4 speed bumps in the hull perpendicular to the length of the hull. I could not sand the high points down as that would have gone through the hull so I attempted to reduce the height on these bumps by ramping up from both sides. I did this on one (as it was near 3/8s of an inch) with layers of Glass Mat in a series of ever shorter layers. Then I finished off with layers of fiberglass bondo. The result was not a racing hull but clearly, an improvement. 

After accomplishing this effect to my satisfaction (when it comes to sanding, I am easily satisfied seeing no need to spend more effort than absolutely necessary), I was ready to paint, or so I thought. But when I inspected the bow, I found that it had been rammed into something (a dock?) and had 2 areas, one 7  inches long and one 4 inches long that had been shattered, filled from the inside with silicone, patched on the outside with bondo and glassed over with one layer of cloth. After sanding away the layer of cloth, the bondo cracked and literally fell out. So I ground down the area with my DeWalt grinder and a 60 grit sanding wheel. Then I applied one layer of cloth & West Marine Epoxy resin to the outside to give me something to work on. I could not now get to the inside without removing the bulkhead I had so substantially built previously.  Then I began to build up the bow with layers of Glass Matt. After getting about ½ the fill I wanted, I laid another piece of Glass Cloth. Again, more layers of Matt and finally 2 more layers of Cloth. I am just about there now and am going to lay a couple more layers of Matt and follow with one more layer of Cloth. The bow is now as hard as a rock and should withstand an amateur docking (of which I am capable). I have even considered putting a strip of oak on the bow but that is just too much effort to look pretty. I hope to finish that today and go over the hull one more time with 100 grit just to smooth it out that little bit more. I am not interested in using 200, then 400, and then wet sanding as I am not building a racing machine.   
As far as paint goes, I have purchased from West Marine, “InterLux Brightside” topside (meaning deck or hull above the waterline) Hatteras white. I plan to roll this on by hand. As this boat will only sail for a few hours per trip (and likely in inland lake waters), be washed off and trailer kept in the driveway, I see no need to use true bottom paint. I can’t find much reading material about painting boats even in all the small boat building articles available, at least none I can understand and apply to my situation. Most all send time on the prep work which the effect depends on the amount of time you put in (refer to my previous statement that 60 – 100 grit is good enough for me). I used this paint once before on my Laguna 18 because someone ran into me on the freeway (another story) and I absolutely loved the color. I think this paint will give the boat a softer “New England Classic” feel about it. Well here are the pics so far. I will add to this post with more pics as I finish off the hull. I just wanted to get this post started with pics up to now.

                                                        
                                                         Finally !!!    A painted Hull !!!    

                                                                
 I want to thank the guys for helping me flip the boat back over so I can now finish off the inside.
Mike Parker, Scotty Baker, Barry Brooks & my neighbor Gary. Thanks guys !
                                                                          
                                                                           
   


                                                                                                                                                                                                         


Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Keel Renovation


In order to remove and inspect the keel, 4' of clearance is required. So I put a couple 2 x 4s on the trailer as a ramp and lifted the stern, then the bow onto the ramp. I slid the boat down the ramp and turned it over on its side. Then I removed the keel trunk cap, unbolted the swing arms and pulled the keel out the inside of the boat.


The brass fitting that was riveted to the keel was loose and the rear 2" of the keel had been replaced with resin filler and glass cloth. When the brass fitting was removed and the glass removed from the keel, the wood around the fitting was pretty bad and the back of the keel was also pretty bad.
I trimmed the keel down, cut a piece from the Red Oak I have been using and epoxied the brass fitting and the Oak piece on to the keel eliminating any rivets or nut & bolts. I also left the 2" off the rear of the keel. Since I do not intend to race this boat and only intend to produce a family day sailor, I don't see that the 2" will make that big of a difference in performance. If I find that it will not perform, I will attempt to rebuild the rear of the keel at a later date, adding another 2 inches.
The keel is now ready to take 2 coats of resin, a layer of glass cloth and a final coat of resin and then paint.
 Follow Up:
Well, It looks pretty good in the picture........ BUT..................I used a cheap ($2, 2") brush. Applied 2 coats straight off. I got way too much paint on and it would not dry. When I thought it was dry, I tried to sand it. That just roughed up the wet spots, took a load of grit from the sandpaper and deposited the same into the wet paint. I tried to let it dry again and repeated the process, this time with a good brush, with the same result. I spoke to a friend of mine, Mike Parker, who is a retired professional Auto & Boat painter. He told me I needed to use primer, thin out the paint with thinner and pay attention to the temperature as paint doesn't like it over 80 something degrees (Fahrenheit). All good advice.  Thanks Mike for taking the time to listen to my amateur project! . But.....I really didn't want to use a primer for various reasons (cost, time to apply, ultimate desired results being lower than a pro's), I wasn't comfortable thinning the paint not knowing just how thin it should be, and I wake up to 90 degrees here in Phoenix, AZ so I had to figure out just how to get the same results I got on the hull at 110 degrees with the same paint.

So I bought some stripper at Home Depot (Citristrip) that I thought would strip the paint and leave the epoxy alone. It worked OK. I then sanded again with 150 grit. Looked good so far. Now the question was, how to apply (without a spray gun since I didn't have one or want to spend the $$$ to get one). I decided to use the 4" foam roller that I used on the hull. YES! It put on just the right amount of paint, 2 coats one right after the other. Let dry for a couple hours and one more coat. Drying and setting hard. Looks real good now.
           







                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               
By the Way: Truck License Plate MMELEVN = Martina McBride Eleven (her current Eleventh Studio CD)


I also cut a small ladle out of an aluminum V8 juice can and avoided the pool of paint in the lid well since I did not have to pour the paint out of the can but ladled it into the paint tray.
             


Sunday, April 8, 2012

Compression Beam Hull Supports

I decided to fabricate new side supports from the solid Red Oak that I have been using. The actual supports that connect the beam to the side planks fixed to the hull are two pieces epoxied together.

                                                                   Original Side Supports


                                                                       New Side Supports